NEW YORK, USA — Menswear is undergoing a renaissance, and the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art is set to amplify this transformation with its spring 2025 exhibition, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.
The exhibit, which will focus on Black dandyism and its profound influence from the 18th century to today, will also inspire next year’s Met Gala theme.
A-list attendees are encouraged to interpret this theme on fashion’s most prominent red carpet.
Curated by fashion historian Monica L. Miller, Superfine marks a historic first as the Costume Institute’s only exhibition to spotlight Black fashion exclusively.
Miller, author of Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity, will lead the project with Andrew Bolton, the institute’s head curator.
The show promises a comprehensive exploration of how Black sartorial codes have evolved from the Harlem Renaissance through today’s luxury fashion landscape.
A Celebration of Black Dandyism and Self-Expression
Dandyism originated in 1790s London and Paris, known for its elegance and exaggerated style. It was soon adopted by enslaved Black men, who found self-expression and defiance in refined, elaborate clothing.
“The history of Black dandyism illustrates how Black people have transformed from being enslaved and stylized as luxury items…to autonomous, self-fashioning individuals who are global trendsetters,” Miller explained.
The exhibit, she added, will “highlight the aesthetic playfulness that the dandy engenders,” revealing how the style balanced assimilation with unique distinction.
As a subversive movement, Black dandyism has retained its roots in African aesthetics, while becoming a worldwide symbol of self-determination and identity.
The exhibit will span iconic eras, such as the Harlem Renaissance, and showcase how Black dandies used fashion to assert autonomy and resist oppressive norms.
Miller sees dandyism as “a story still unfolding,” as Black designers continue to redefine global menswear today.
Met Gala 2025: A Night for Fashion’s Leading Men
The Met Gala will honour this theme with a new roster of co-chairs, all known for their distinct styles and influence.
Actor Colman Domingo, Formula One driver Lewis Hamilton, rapper A$AP Rocky, and producer Pharrell Williams will join Vogue’s Anna Wintour and honourary co-chair LeBron James to lead the event.
Domingo, who previously donned a dramatic white cape suit by designer Willy Chavarria, and A$AP Rocky, famous for his iconic “grandma quilt” at the 2021 Gala, bring their unique fashion legacies to the table.
Williams, Louis Vuitton’s Men’s Creative Director and a co-sponsor of the exhibit, is known for his dandy-inspired menswear with bold details and extravagant silhouettes.
Andrew Bolton described Black designers as “constantly challenging normative categories of identity,” pointing to dandyism as the unifying force that has empowered Black creatives to reshape the boundaries of men’s fashion.
“What unites them is a reliance on various tropes rooted in the tradition of dandyism, and specifically Black dandyism,” he said.
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Fashion, Race, and Power: A Cultural Dialogue
The Costume Institute’s choice to spotlight Black dandyism reflects fashion’s increasing dialogue on race, heritage, and identity.
The exhibit’s exploration of fashion as both a tool for self-expression and a declaration of dignity will underscore how Black dandies transformed elegance into a form of resistance, from surviving subjugation to becoming global style icons.
Through Superfine, the Met aims to illuminate a powerful legacy, one that tells a profound story about culture, identity, and the ongoing influence of Black design.
With anticipation building for both the exhibition and the gala, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style is poised to celebrate and honour a legacy of fashion and resilience that has shaped menswear and redefined style globally.
